Thursday, September 12, 2019

Day 11: Panama Marinera con Investigación - A recipe for experiential learning


Ingredients:
-8 (up to 12) undergraduate science majors
-Add 2 mentors (R. Emlet and M. Watts)
-Mix in discussions of ca. 2 dozen papers on tropical marine environments (spring term)
-Student pairs incubate short, field projects, testing a hypothesis of interest 
     (summer, with mentor feedback)
-Go to Panama’s Caribbean coast; work at the Smithsonian’s Bocas Research Station 
     (12 days in early September)
-Snorkel on corals reefs, in seagrass beds and near mangroves; include 10 topical lectures.
-Students execute research projects, make mistakes, and mentors nurture the learning process.
-Students make posters on their research projects and mentors coach the process.

-For spice add 3-toed sloths, howler monkeys, an iguana, a caiman, frigate birds, dolphins, and indigenous cocoa farming (see earlier blogs).

Outcome: Students living and learning about research in tropical marine systems.

OIMB goes to Panama” was established in 2012 as an experiential learning course and has used this recipe four times.  With support from the Ted and Carol Williams Fund of the University of Oregon, we have strived to create an opportunity “for better and more effective ways of learning.”

This year’s recipe is almost finished and I AM VERY PLEASED with the outcome.  Our students have tasted the tropics, nibbled on the different cultures of Panama, and soaked in what it means to do their own field research.  I am proud of their effort, their enthusiasm, and their willingness to work so hard in a very short time as we baked the recipe.  Well Done Students!

And thanks to my colleague Maya, STRI Bocas staff, our cooks and boat drivers.  Richard Emlet

 Back on the boat after our last snorkel.

 Good night.



Wednesday, September 11, 2019

Day 10: Crunch Time


Hola,

Crunch Time:

Our students have two more days to finish their 2-week long research projects. This morning they are hard at it, collecting their last bits of data. Mitchell and Natalie launched their kayaks for House Reef to complete their project addressing whether sea urchins “dress” themselves in mangrove leaves to avoid UV exposure. 


Mitchell and Natalie
Our brittle star chefs, Casey and Ella, continue to determine the relative palatability of two brittle star species (one spiny and one spine-less) to local fish by preparing brittlestar puree in bit-sized agar cubes. Hmmm. 
Ella and Casey











Vanessa and Gabby continue to take damsel fish abuse as they observe these fish gardeners aggressively defend their algal gardens growing on the local seagrass Thalassia testudinum. 
Vanessa and Gabby












Last, Genevieve and Tralee paddled to STRI reef and House Pt. to document the association of symbiotic shrimp with the cork-screw anemone Bartholomea annulata. Tomorrow they will present their project results to the group and create a scientific poster. I’m excited to see the fruits of our students’ months of planning and weeks of the trials and triumphs of research.

Genevieve and Tralee
Muchas Gracias:

We are grateful for Smithsonian Bocas Research Station for hosting our course. It is a terrific place to teach a tropical marine biology field course. We have the luxury of a dedicated classroom, dive boats, knowledgeable drivers, kayaks, awesome BRS staff and two talented cooks preparing us three meals a day.

Our classroom

Sebastian, our boat driver
Plinio and Erick
A special thank you to Plinio, Cynthia, Urania, and Nitzia for all your help in organizing our stay, course needs and excursions. To Sabastian, our expert boat driver, thank you for sharing your local knowledge, keeping us safe in the water and showing us your home island of Zapatillas. 
Urania and Nitzia
Last, muchas gracias to our cooks, Desuze and Cholla, who keep us exceptionally well fed with a delicious array of meats, vegetables and fruits, not to mention the homemade hot-sauce we’ll be craving for months to come. The hardest part of the trip was honoring Desuze’s request that we all not profusely thank them at every meal.

Our amazing cooks, Cholla and Desuze


 In addition to the awesome facilities and staff, BRS has a number of cool terrestrial vertebrates, including sloths, howler monkeys, and iguanas.
Howler Monkey (photo credit: Vanessa)

Early Morning Sloth


My Highlights:

It has been a pleasure to get to snorkel in seagrass beds, mangrove roots and coral reefs from nearby BRS all the way over to the Islas Zapatillas. It truly is a paradise for an invert nerd like myself. Our students, Richard and I have taken pictures at each snorkel site. I’ve included some pictures of my personal highlights, including a sea hare, a sacoglossan, tubeworms, many corals including sea fans and even a few vertebrates.


Me and a nurse shark (this one is for Rook and Rowan)
A sea fan with my dive partner Richard

Sacoglossan sea slug Elysia crispata

Spotted seahare Aplysia dactylomela

Staghorn coral Acropora palmata and ocean surgeonfish


Social feather duster worm Bispira brunnea
Staghorn coral and glassy sweeper Pempheris schombrugkii

A final thank you to my co-instructor Richard Emlet and Jan Hodder (who previously taught the course) for creating such a fun and well organized field course. I feel awfully lucky to be here. Here is hoping for a return in 2021!

Aclamaciones!,
Maya


Tuesday, September 10, 2019

Day 9 - Research continues


As we get closer and closer to the end of this trip, work regarding our projects becomes more and more prevalent. So, this morning, each group set off to the field to start finishing up trials. Casey and I took our last set of trials for our experiment, which included hanging two different "flavors" of agar cubes off the docks. One contained ground up Ophiothrix suensonii, a spiny brittle star, and the other contained Ophioderma brevispinum, a brittle star lacking spines. O. suensonii ophiuroids live out in the open, commonly on sponge or coral, while O. brevispinum live under rocks presumably because they are eaten more often. We are aiming to determine whether or not the spines on O. suensonii create a physical defense against becoming a fish's favorite snack, or if there is something deeper to it like a chemical defense (i.e. tasting or smelling bad, etc). Research like such took place for all of us throughout the morning.

After lunch, Mitchell, Genevieve, Natalie, and Maya headed out for an afternoon snorkel while everyone else stayed back to continue research work, or to heal from the sunburns a few of us got the day before (I was doing both). It was reported to me that some amazing naps were taken. Casey and I finished the ends of our data collections and took pictures of some of the process.
Casey and I's two cubes in the water

At hospital point reef, the others spotted some trumpet fish, cow fish, and as always lots of coral.


Mitch and Natalie collecting extra ophiuroids for Casey and I


After dinner, which as always was insanely delicious (with fights over the homemade hot sauce), we finally went night snorkeling! There were many nights we pushed this off because of tiredness and weary visibility. But tonight we suited up in as much clothing as we could to avoid stings and jumped in.



Some sleeping fish, puffer fish, spider crabs, banded coral shrimp, and a few barracuda were spotted. Overall successful, cool to see everything we see in the day exist in the night. 

Very lucky to see the things we see here in Panama! Time is flying by, for the next few days will be consisting of finishing project presentations and our posters. So we'll be soaking up all of the warm salt water we get to and looking for sloths up in the trees all the way up until Saturday. 

Love
Ella Sullivan :)













Monday, September 9, 2019

Day 8 - Islas Zapatillas y Coral Caye. Monday September 9, 2019. Entry time - 7:30pm

This day began at 6:30am, and just like every other day we have been here the breakfast was delicious.  Then we had some time to gather our selves and things before meeting up down at the boat to begin the all day snorkel adventure.  We all got settled on the boat (Picture 1 & 2) and the adventure began.  Our friendly boat captain Sebastian was our operator today and he took us on the wonderfully long boat ride out to Islas Zapatillas.  The islands are part of a marine park where there is no fishing allowed and the wild life is abundant.  The boat ride took about 30 minutes and the weather was absolutely perfect.  It was sunny and warm, with a light breeze and the boat ride took us through some of the most spectacular scenery.  We zipped through mangroves that were speckled along the way to the islands, and were like little patches of vibrant emeralds nestled among the varying shades of cyan water.  Just before we got to the islands, Vanessa spotted a small pod of bottle nose dolphins (video of aforementioned dolphins is too large to upload to this blog post).  Sebastian said that they frequent the waters around the islands.  We saw shiny tail flukes and slippery dorsal fins as they caught breaths of air in between bouts of feeding.  That was just a preview of the wonderful collection of animals we were going to see on today's adventure.  The islands where we were headed looked like two relatively small specs of land on the horizon, but got much larger as we approached them.

Once we got closer to the islands, their true grandeur became clear; white sandy beaches and rows of tropical trees including coconut palms (Picture 3).  We headed for the eastern part of one of the two islands for our first snorkel.  Once we all had our mask, fins, and any other accouterments donned we splashed into the water fins first and eyes wide open.  We were greeted by warm salty water and fabulous wild life.  Lots of different fishes and large corals were abundant at this location as were the tidal currents.  The large colonies Elkhorn coral, Acropora palmata (Picture 4) were dominant at this site and resting among these large corals were resting Nurse sharks Ginglymostoma cirratum (Picture 5).  The currents were fairly strong at this first site and it made swimming a bit of a challenge, however we pressed on despite the water pushing us around.  The fishes and corals did not seem to mind at all though (Video 1).  We snorkeled around for over an hour at this first location.  It was so much fun to see so many different organisms, and things that we have been learning about out in the wild where they grow naturally.  We then piled back into the boat and headed for another site.

This site was still near the Zapatillas but a little more west of the site that we just explored.  In a similar fashion as all of our snorkel trips have been thus far, we threw on our gear and flopped off the sides of the boat and into the water like fishes in reverse.  At this site, the current was a little less troublesome which was nice and our friendly boat captain offered to circle around us and pick us up down the way in a drift dive fashion which was very nice.  We puttered around the site, admiring all of the large corals that we have been learning about.  There was more Elkhorn coral at this site, but there were other massive corals too like Siderastrea spp. and Diploria spp.  The latter of which are the Brain corals which this author has a fondness for.  There were a few fishes of all sorts swimming around but more on the reef crest.  The author dove a few times down along the reef wall and did not see as many fishes on the reef drop off, and those that were there either hid or swam away.  The drop off was quite deep and fun to dive, and made for some good photography opportunities (Picture 6).  We swam around this site for about an hour or so before making our way back to the boat.  We all climbed aboard and we all agreed that it was time for lunch.  It was also about that time of day as well, however we were ravenous after a morning of blissful snorkeling.  Our wonderful captain took us to a beach on the Caribbean side of the western Zapatilla.

The view from today's lunch is something that we will not be able to forget.  White sandy beach, surrounded by mangroves and turquoise water, it really doesn't get much better than this (Pictures 7, 8, & 9).  We all spent the next hour or so recuperating and refreshing.  Eating delicious food prepared by the wonderful kitchen crew here at the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute (STRI), and lounging in the warm Caribbean waters.  Sebastian grew up on these islands and took the some time of the lunch break to go and see some of his family.  Once he got back, our lunch break in paradise was unfortunately over.  We all gathered our things and a large assortment of trash that Richard had collected during the lunch break, and climbed back into the boat.  We headed for a site away from the Zapatillas, Coral Caye, which has large amounts of soft corals like Sea fans and Sea Whips.

This site was a small boat ride away from our paradise lunch location.  We threw on our gear and jumped into the water.  We were greeted by warm water and more tidal currents.  Swimming was a small challenge but there were large amounts of soft corals to view.  They were swaying underwater like trees blowing around in a rough storm.  Fishes were swimming all though the soft corals.  It was really cool to see.  Some of the sea whips were quite large (Picture 10).  This site also had patches of exposed sand where we found different kinds of echinoderms, large sea cucumbers and buried sand dollars.  This site was different than the other two we dove at today, because of the soft corals.  They were more prevalent here than at the other two sites.  We swam around here for about 45 minutes before getting back into the boat.  By this time, we were all pretty tired, and rightfully so.  It was a wonderful day of snorkeling around some of the more pristine waters of Panama.

We climbed back aboard the boat and motored back to STRI.  The ride back was just as scenic as it was coming out there, but this time it was much more quiet.  Everyone was a little more tired than we were at the start of the day and the lack of conversation on the boat was due to the exhaustion.  It was simply just because we were tired from such a fun day.  However, this fun came at a cost.  When we got back to the dock and offloaded our selves and things that's when most of us noticed our various sunburns from the day.  Some were worse than others, and many of us had nice boot tan lines on our ankles.  They were more red than tan though at this point, but that is okay.  If that is the price that we have to pay for a super fun day, then this author is okay with that.  We all had some time to refresh and get ready for lecture before dinner.

Lecture this evening was a continuation on reef fishes given by Richard.  We learned more about the local parrot fishes here in Panama, their importance in tropic regulation of coral and algae, as well as damselfish distribution.  It was quite informative and fun to learn about some of the fishes that we saw today and throughout previous escapades of reef snorkeling.  Then we all gathered around the dinner table at the usual 6:30pm for another exquisite meal.  After dinner we had time for writing in our journals and it was this authors turn to write the daily blog post in lieu of such activities.  Tomorrow we are supposed to have time to do work on our projects in the morning, more lecture and another snorkel trip planned in the afternoon.  We may even do a night snorkel. 

This study abroad program has been a blast, and with all things that are fun, the time seems to be flying by.  A small caveat about the images to follow, they really don't do justice to the wonderful spectacle of nature that we were lucky to be immersed in today. 

Hasta tu sueños,

Mitchell Hebner

Pictures and Video

(Picture 1) - view of the back of the boat, all of us on and ready to start the day

                  (Picture 2) - view of the front of the boat, clear skies ahead.

(Picture 3) - Our first glimpse of the Zapatillas.  Beautiful white sand beaches and coconut palms glistening in the warm tropical sun light.

(Picture 4) - A massive Elkhorn coral at the first dive site.  This colony was clearly old judging by the size which was at least two meters across.
(Picture 5) - The author of this blog post hanging loose with a resting Nurse shark on the reef floor.

(Video 1) - Footage from the first dive site of the day, lots of Elkhorn coral and fishes.  They were abundant at this site. Quality may have been altered to fit the format of the blog.
(Picture 6) - Swimming up from the deep water drop off of the reef at the second dive site, another massive Elkhorn coral.
(Picture 7) - OIMB goes to Panama 2019 enjoying the warm tropical waters on our lunch break.

(Picture 8) - Our boat for the day, anchored offshore of our wonderful lunch beach.

(Picture 9) - Panorama of the lunch beach.  Not too many days like today.
(Picture 10) - Sea whips at the Coral Caye site, the third place we swam around at.  There were fishes swimming through these pliable fronds, and it was reminiscent of monkeys swinging through tree branches.

Sunday, September 8, 2019

Day 7 - Sabado De Lluvia Y Domingo De Caracol



  
Photo by Tralee Chapman

Our day off finally arrived on Saturday and we were all excited to explore the town of Bocas and it's beaches! Unfortunately, the weather had a different plan for us. We started the morning off by bearing the rain and going to explore a botanical garden that is down the street from STRI. The garden not only had native plants but also included plants from all over the world. The garden was beautiful even with the rain beating down on us. 


   
Ginger Shampoo Plant
Photo by Tralee Chapman 
After being drenched from the rain we all decided to get dry and warm before heading out for lunch in town. Around noon we all crammed into two taxis and headed into town. We had a delicious lunch while overlooking the water at El Pirata. With our bellies happy and full we explored the stores in town and got all of our souvenir and hot sauce shopping done.  

As the rain and adventure filled day came to an end a couple of us went hunting for a Sloth. After about 15 minutes we managed to find one! He was hanging from a tree and as we shined the light on him he slowly moved his head to cover himself from the light. This was my first Sloth sighting here at STRI and it was everything I had hoped for! After watching him for a few minutes we left the Sloth alone so that he (or she) could do all of it's Sloth things in peace


Sunday, September 8, 2019

After yesterday's torrential rain we were hoping for sunshine. We didn't get sunshine but we also didn't get rain which was a win for me! The day started with time to work on our projects and soon after breakfast all the groups went out to collect more data. Mitchell and I went out to House Reef to continue collecting data on how fast urchins cover themselves. Tralee & Genevieve went our to STRI Point to continue their search for anemones and shrimp while Gabby & Vanessa continued their work with damsel fish at House Reef. Ella & Casey used this time to modify and perfect their project and worked off the STRI dock.
Sea urchin (Lytechinus variegatus)
in the middle of covering itself during
our experiment
In the afternoon we headed out on the boat and went snorkeling at Punta Caracol. Punta Caracol was filled with fish and coral! The most notable fish I saw was the Cowfish! Vanessa & Gabby spotted a Southern Stingray while Tralee & I caught sight of a Ctenophore. 
Southern Stingray
Photo by Vanessa


Ctenophore
Photo by Tralee 


One of the most notable things we saw at Punta Caracol was the Elkhorn Coral. Elkhorn Coral is one of the main reef building corals of shallow fringing reefs. This coral was once abundant but has been affected by White-band disease and has unfortunately suffered mass mortality. 
                          
                             Elkhorn Coral featuring a Fireworm
                        Photo by Gabby
Elkhorn Coral
Photo by Gabby












Time is flying by here in paradise and as we start our final week in Panama I'm looking forward to all the snorkeling still left to do and to learning all the things! 

Hasta la proxima,

Natalie Contreras  

Friday, September 6, 2019

Day 5 - The Chocolate Experience

Getting to spend some time on land was a nice change to all the snorkeling we've been doing. We started the day at 8:30 by getting in the boat to head to the mainland. We had sack lunches packed, sunscreen lathered, and smiles wide as we headed towards the town of Almirante.
Ella and Casey on the boat.
It was a beautiful boat ride with only a few sprays of water along the way. As we drove up to the dock we watched houses and businesses pass by as we thought about how different Panama is from America. There was also a large cargo ship and loading bay for Chiquita which is a banana company.
Chiquita Ship.
Houses in Almirante.
A taxi business in Almirante.
Once docked, we unloaded our things with the help of locals and waited for our bus to arrive. When it arrived, we loaded up and headed to our destination: Oreba Cacao Farms. When we arrived, we found ourselves in a farming village full of roaming people, children, dogs, chickens, and geese. This beautiful place was home to hundreds of thousands of cocoa trees which were farmed by many different residents.
Cacao Farm welcome sign with natural farm on the hills in the background.
Our tour began when we were given walking sticks for our hike throughout the tour. We headed down the trail which started at the welcome sign. Our tour guides explained how the farm is set up, maintained, and harvested. We learned so many things about farming here and how its different from traditional farming in America. Here, the cocoa plants are surrounded by other native plants of all kinds including fig trees, banana trees, and many more. This makes the farm appear like a jungle instead a typical manicured farm that you'd expect.
Natalie and Vanessa with their walking sticks.
Tralee with a walking stick.

Bananas in a tree within the farm.
Next, we learned how things have changed in recent decades for the farmers. In the 70's the market for cocoa changed and instead of earning 3$ per pound they went down to earning 25 cents per pound and now they've hardly increased to a mere 85 cents per pound. To give better context, 12 cacao fruits are equivalent to a pound. This low income makes it hard for farmers to maintain their plants especially when the fungus arrived. This fungus is powdery, travels quickly through wind, and now destroys 85% of crops. The combination of the presence of this fungus and the low income put the cocoa farmers and their communities in a rough place.

Cacao shells left to decompose.

Young cacao fruit.
Even though times are tough, the local Ngobe people work hard to produce quality cocoa. We got to see the harvesting and production process up close with free samples! First, our guide Samuel (who has been in the cacao farms for 57 years) cut open a ripe cacao fruit and showed us the inside which had this milky white look to it. We each took a seed and sucked on it to taste the mango-y flavor that the meat of the fruit had. We learned that after the seeds are dried, they are left to ferment and we got to try fermented seeds. When the seeds are fully fermented, they are roasted and peeled which we got to watch right in front of us and then we got to try the freshly roasted cocoa beans. They also demonstrated how the roasted beans are then crushed by hand with a rock to form a cocoa paste. We each got to try crushing the beans into paste which was super fun and satisfying! Finally, we got to try their chocolate paste which is the cocoa paste mixed with coconut oil and honey. It was so delicious and the most flavorful chocolate I've ever had. 

Fireplace for roasting the seeds.

The inside of the cacao fruit.
Roasted and peeled beans.

Casey crushing some beans.
Tralee crushing some beans.
Maya crushing some beans.
Chocolate paste, so yummy!


 The final part of our tour showed us more beautiful hillsides covered in farms as well as some of the local village. There were small buildings in the village that were used for fermenting the seeds, roasting the seeds, and packaging product. When we returned to our starting location, we were given an amazing lunch and able to purchase many of their chocolate goods and homemade wares. The people were so nice and welcoming and Samuel did an amazing job of teaching us what goes on behind the chocolate we eat. If I am ever in Panama again, this is a place I must come back to!
Our delicious lunch! (After I ate the chicken :P )
A cottage in the village.
We said our goodbyes and headed back to STRI through another gorgeous boat ride. The rest of the afternoon was dedicated to project time where each group split up to do their own thing. Two groups went out to house reef to collect data while the other two stayed in the lab to analyze data in preparation for Sunday when we will get more time to work on our projects. Today was a great day of learning about local culture and trying new things!
Mountains in the distance on our way back to STRI.
- Tralee Chapman